Hanging your food in a bear bag has long been an accepted method of keeping your food safe from bears and other critters while in the backcountry. Recently, other methods such as bear canisters have become the preferred method in some areas, and even required where bear populations are particularly aggressive. Knowing when it is appropriate to use a bear bag, and how to properly hang one are important skills that require some practice.

This article will go over how to make your own bear bag and hanging system. We’ll get to the instructions in just a second, but first let’s go over some of the features of this system.

The food bag measures 13”x18” when flat, but the design could be easily adapted to make it larger or smaller.

The bag has a roll top with a toggle closure system that is lightweight and also facilitates hanging the bag. The hang line can be attached to the food bag by tying a simple girth hitch around the toggle. This knot is easily tied and untied. I like this method because I don’t have to carry a carabiner if I’m hanging the bag with the standard method as opposed to the PCT method. (Many areas where I hike, rodents are the concern rather than bears.)

The food bag also has a lower loop that can be used to facilitate hanging the bag with the PCT method. The PCT method of hanging a bear bag is considered to be more bear proof because the hang line is secured up near the food bag, through the use of a toggle that is tied into the line. (Usually a tent stake or stick.)

I like having the carabiner loop low on the bag because it eliminates the possibility that the free end of the line can work its way back through the gate of the carabiner causing the food bag to get stuck. This has been known to happen when the carabiner is placed above the bag. With the loop low, I can use a tiny non-locking carabiner without worry.

PCT method with carabiner at bottom of bag.

One issue I’ve had with the PCT hanging method is that it can be a pain to tie the toggle into the hang line, especially with the tension of the food bag hanging on the line.

To try and alleviate this problem I devised a system that uses a cord lock instead of the tied in toggle. Sliding a cord lock into place is much easier than tying a knot in the cord, especially on a tensioned line. I can also place the cord lock higher than I could tie a knot. A toggle is still needed so that the cord lock doesn’t pull through the carabiner. But instead of a tying on a stick, a small piece of aluminum Y stake is drilled so that it can slide along the cord.

The shape of the Y tent stake has an added advantage. When positioned correctly it cams against the carabiner putting a kink in the line as shown in the photo below. This added friction allows the cord lock to hold more weight. I’ve tested this system with up to 12 pounds in the food bag and it has held well. I haven’t tried it with all types of cord, and it may not work as well with ultra slippery cord. But should I ever find that the cord lock is not holding I can easily revert to the tied in stick method.

The system also includes a throw bag that can be filled with rocks for tossing over a tree branch. The throw bag also serves as storage bag for the hanging line when not in use. The bag stays attached to the line when hanging so that it doesn’t get lost.

Instructions

Choosing the fabric

Remember a bear bag will see a fair amount of abuse, so you’ll want to choose a fabric that can handle it. As always there is a balance between weight and durability. The bag in the photos is made from a 70 denier ripstop nylon and seems to be holding up well. If you want the bag to be waterproof you’ll need to use a coated fabric and seal the seams.

Step 1

Cut a piece of fabric 21 x 28”. Sew a ¾” double fold hem on one of the 28” edges of the fabric. Use two rows of stitching to secure the hem as shown below.

Step 2

Take a 6” long piece of ¾” webbing and pin it to the right side of the hem centered from left to right as shown below. Sew a box x stitch on either side of the webbing leaving a ⅜” wide gap in the center of the webbing. (This should also be the center of the fabric.) Reinforce the inner edges of the box x stitch with a bar tack as shown below. Be sure that the gap between the bar tacks is big enough for a piece of paracord to run through.

Step 3

Fold the fabric in half wrong sides together. (Webbing should be on the outside of the bag.) Take a 4” piece of ¾” webbing and fold it in half forming a loop. Pin the loop between the layers of fabric 1” up from the bottom corner. The loop should be inserted ½” into the fabric. Stitch the bottom and side of the fabric with a ⅜” seam allowance as shown.

Step 4

Trim the seam allowance to half its width. The seam allowance should be trimmed on either side of the webbing loop, but do not trim the loop. Trim the bottom corner up to the stitching as shown below.

Step 5

Turn the bag so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing out. The webbing should be inside the bag. Stitch the side and bottom again with a ⅜” seam allowance. This will trap the raw edge of the fabric within the new seam allowance leaving a finished edge.

Step 6

With the bag still wrong side out, there will be a small opening in the seam allowance at the top of the bag. Take a 6” long piece of paracord and fold it in half forming a loop. Insert the ends of the loop into the opening at the top of the bag. The loop left protruding from the bag should be big enough for the toggle that will be used for the closure (including the knot) to fit through easily but not much bigger. Stitch the loop in place using a bar tack stitch. Be sure both sides of the loop are secured. (I suggest using standard paracord for this, and for attaching the toggle, rather than the thinner cord that will be used to hang the bag.)

Step 7

Bar tack the area where the webbing loop attaches.

Step 8

Turn the bag right side out. Use a small piece of paracord to tie the toggle to the webbing as shown below. Use seam sealer to seal the seams if desired. The food bag is now complete

Throw Bag:

Step 1

Cut a piece of fabric 7” x 9-3/4”.

Mark the fabric 1-1/2” over and 1-1/2” down from the top corners of the fabric as shown below.

Step 2

Fold the corners of the fabric wrong sides together along the line you just marked. Stitch the fold in place with 2 rows of stitching as shown below.

Step 3

Sew a 1/2” double fold hem along the top edge of the fabric. Use a single row of stitching to secure the hem.

Step 4

Fold the piece of fabric in half wrong sides together. Stitch the bottom and side with a ¼” seam allowance.

Step 5

Trim the seam allowance to half its width. Turn the bag so that the wrong sides are facing out. Stitch the side and bottom again with a 1/4” seam allowance. This will trap the raw edge of the fabric within the new seam allowance, leaving a finished edge.

Step 6

Turn the bag right side out. The sewing for the throw bag is now finished. Thread your line though the channel at the top of the bag. Pull enough line through so that you can tie a 3” long loop in the end of the line. A figure-eight on a bight works well for this.

Note: The loop tied in the end of the cord is used to form the girth hitch around the toggle of the food bag for hanging. Before tying the cord to the food bag, remove the rocks from the throw bag and close it tightly by pulling on both ends of the cord. This will eliminate the stress put on the throw bag when the line is tensioned. Failing to do this could cause the throw bag to rip. When closed correctly the throw bag should be able to slide up and down the cord. See the photo below.

Aluminum toggle (optional)

For those interested in using a cord lock instead of tying on a stick as is typically done in the PCT method, here is how I made the aluminum toggle.

Step 1

Use a hacksaw to cut a small section from a Y-shaped tent stake. I used an old bent stake I had. The section should be long enough that it won’t fit through the carabiner you will be using. (I suggest using a very small keychain type carabiner for this.)

Step 2

Drill a hole through one leg of the stake as close to the center of the stake as possible. The hole should be large enough so that the cord you will be using can slide through easily. Use a file to round over all the sharp edges.

Step 3

Thread the toggle onto the cord followed by the cord lock. When you go to hang the bag, make sure the cord lock and toggle are positioned on the pull side of the cord and not the bag side. Run the pull side of the cord through the carabiner attached to the lower loop. Pull the bag up to the branch and then slide the cord lock and toggle as high as you can reach. Slowly release the cord until the toggle engages with the carabiner as shown in the photo below.