Needle and Thread
Recently a reader suggested I do an article on selecting the right needle and thread for a project. I thought it was a great idea, but realized it was a topic I wasn’t super knowledgeable in. Mostly I have relied on trial and error to find what works for me, but I decided it would be a good opportunity to improve my own knowledge and then share what I learned. I’ve provided links in the article to some of the sources I found most helpful.
Needle
Sewing machine needles come in many varieties and are categorized by needle size, and needle type. Ideally, the needle you choose will be matched both to the thread, and the fabric you are using.
Matching the needle to the thread is pretty straightforward because most thread manufacturers will recommend a needle size, or range of sizes, for each type of thread they make. (We will go over this in more detail in the section on thread.)
Matching the needle to the fabric involves several factors and requires some knowledge about the differences between needles.
Anatomy of a needle
Shank
The top section of the needle that is inserted into the machine. On home sewing machine needles, the front of the shank is rounded and the back is flat.
Blade or Shaft
The main section of the needle. It extends from the bottom of the shank to the point. The diameter of the shaft determines the size of the needle.
Groove
The groove on the front side of the needle protects the thread as it is pushed through the fabric. The thread should be able to nestle into this groove.
Scarf
An indentation on the back of the needle, above the eye. The scarf allows the bobbin hook to grab the needle thread creating a stitch. The size and shape of the scarf can vary by needle type.
Eye
The hole in the lower portion of the shaft. The thread passes through the eye. Eye shape and size can vary by needle type. Thread should be able to pass easily through the eye.
Point
The tip of the needle that penetrates the fabric. The shape of the point can vary by needle type. These shapes are designed to penetrate different types of fabric.
Needle size
The size of the needle is determined by the diameter of the blade. There are 2 numbering systems used for indicating the size of a needle, European and American. The European system ranges from 60-110, and the American system ranges from 8-18 (for home sewing machines). On a package of needles, both numbers will generally be shown. The larger the number, the larger the needle.
Schmetz brand needles include a third number on the package, “130/705 H”. This simply indicates that the needle is meant for use with home sewing machines.
Needle type
Needles are designed for use with specific fabrics. The shape of the point, eye, and scarf vary based on what type of fabric the needle was meant for. There are many types, but this article will cover 4 that are common for myog projects.
Universal
A slightly rounded point. A general purpose needle for use with both woven and knit materials.
Ball Point
A more rounded point than universal, it is designed to slide between the fibers of knit fabrics without snagging or damaging them.
Microtex (Sharp)
Very slim, acute point. For use with micro fibers, polyester, silk, foils, artificial leather, coated materials.
Jeans (Denim)
A medium ball point and a reinforced blade. Meant for use with denim and similar fabrics, the reinforced blade makes it useful for penetrating extra thick woven fabrics, with minimum needle deflection, reducing risk of needle breakage and skipped stitches.
Needle Use tips
Choose a needle size based on the thread you are using, as well as the weight of the fabric. As a general rule of thumb, the heavier the fabric, the larger the needle. A second rule of thumb, is that the more layers of fabric being sewn, the larger the needle. (Within the range recommend for the thread.)
In some cases it can be beneficial to use a needle size larger than what is recommended for the thread, (sewing through multiple layers of webbing or thick fabrics, for example.) But trying to use a needle smaller than what is recommended will generally lead to issues with the thread feeding through the needle properly.
Choose the needle type based on the type of fabric you are sewing. It is a good idea to keep several sizes and types of needles handy. I always like to do some tests before starting a project using the actual fabric and thread. That way I can try a couple needles and see which works best. It also gives me a chance to make sure the thread tension and the stitch length are set correctly.
Sewing machines can be finicky and sometimes just trying a different needle can fix an issue. I was recently trying to sew some webbing onto a shoulder strap and was having all kinds of trouble. I thought there was something wrong with the machine until I realized I had forgotten to switch to a larger needle. I switched to a larger denim needle and the issues were gone.
Manufacturers recommend a needle be replaced after about 8-10 hours of use. Worn needles can cause skipped stitches, puckered or damaged fabrics, or broken or shredded thread.
More info on needles can be found here and here.
Thread
There are many types of thread and it can be a daunting topic to dive into. For the sake of brevity, this article will focus on 100% polyester thread, which is commonly used by myog enthusiasts, and is widely available.
Thread size
There are several systems used for measuring the size of thread, but the Tex system is one of the most consistent. The Tex standard uses the weight of 1,000 meters of thread (in grams) as the starting point. For example, 1,000 meters of thread that weighs 1 gm. = 1 Tex. The higher the Tex, the thicker the thread.
The Tex size is not always listed on the spool of thread, but it can generally be found on the manufacturers website. If you know the Tex size for a specific thread, you can look up what needle to use on a chart like this one.
More information on choosing a thread size can be found here.
Thread construction
Thread can be constructed in several ways, this article will cover three.
Spun
Spun threads are made from short fibers twisted or spun together. Spun threads are generally not as strong as core spun or continuous filament threads.
Continuous Filament
Continuous filament threads are made from long filaments twisted together. This results in a stronger, more abrasion resistant thread. It is also smoother and lint free. A continuous filament thread will generally be stronger than a core spun thread in the same Tex size.
Core Spun
Core spun threads are made from short fibers spun around a micro filament core. This gives them a similar appearance to spun threads but with higher strength. Because of the more traditional look, core spun threads are often used for button holes or topstitching.
Magnified view of core spun vs continuous filament threads.
Note: The chart below contains information for several Gutermann brand threads. This brand seems to be what is offered by most online retailers of outdoor fabrics, and has a good reputation. If you are using another brand, similar information can usually be found on the manufacturers website.
For what it’s worth, having used all the threads shown in the chart above, I have found that they all work fine. I personally prefer the continuous filament threads as they seem to feed through my machine better. I would say I end up using Tera 80 for most things I sew. Tera 40 is good for heavy fabrics or seams that will see a lot of abuse. (Tera 40 with a Tex size of 75, is the upper size limit of what home sewing machines can handle, and might not work on all machines. I’ve found that It works fine with my Singer 4423.)
Thread Use Tips
Thread is wound onto spools in one of two ways, stacked or cross-wound.
Stacked spools have the thread wound onto the spool perpendicular to the axis of the spool. This type of spool should be placed on the vertical pin on the sewing machine. The spools are meant to spin as the thread is pulled off it.
Cross-wound spools have the thread wound on in an x pattern. The thread is designed to be pulled from the top of the spool without the spool spinning. Small cross-wound spools should be placed on the horizontal thread pin of the machine. Larger spools or cones will need a thread stand. (The Gutermann threads discussed above are cross-wound threads. There are many ways to make a quick and easy thread stand, just google homemade thread strand.)
More info on thread can be found here
Strong Seams
Of course the reason to use the correct needle and thread is to make a strong seam, but remember that strong seams depend on other factors as well. Using the correct thread tension, starting and ending all seams with a good lock stitch, and reinforcing critical areas with bar tacks or additional stitching, are also important parts of a strong seam.
A final note for beginners, If you are just getting started with sewing, this may seem like an overly complex topic. Hopefully this article is helpful, but if you are still unsure of which needle or thread to use, don’t be hindered by the paralysis of analysis. As a teenager I completed many projects using whatever needle and thread happened to be in my mom’s sewing machine, and it was pretty rare to have a seam on a project fail. I suggest just jumping in and getting started making things. If a seam does come apart, it can generally be fixed, and you’ll learn what works best for you as you go.
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